By Emma Macfarlane
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June 27, 2025
An 18th birthday and the end of A Levels inspired a mother/daughter trip to revisit one of our favourite cities, Marrakech, and there was only one place we wanted to stay: Fellah Hotel . Fellah Hotel Just 30 minutes from the airport by car, a little south of the city, Fellah Hotel is located in the small village of Tassoultante. The hotel has an arrangement with local company, New Directions Travel, who provide luxury airport transfers for a fraction of the cost usually charged. Fellah Hotel is a relaxed oasis of calm, a cultural melting pot where no frills, simple luxury meets farm stay and art centre. Each check in contributes a portion to Dar al-Ma’mûn, an UNESCO recognised art centre and library that provides cultural education and activities for the hotel’s local village. The Touco café, located outside near the pool, provides a totally authentic local street food experience. The café is entirely run by local villagers who are proud to have the opportunity to serve some of the best regional food in the area. Well-tended gardens accommodate 10 villas which in turn house a total of 68 rooms and suites, each spacious and contemporary Moroccan in style. The hotel embraces a shabby chic style - more chic than shabby - with Moroccan fabrics and furnishing giving a real sense of place. Wander through the gardens and say hello to the horses and goats – guests are welcome to get involved with feeding and milking too and the old car and treehouse are a great addition to the authentic experience for children. The kids club is always a hit too. We arrived at lunchtime having taken the early flight from Gatwick so being quite weary, we headed for the pool once we had checked in. The pool area is the centre point of the hotel. It is spacious with a gorgeous and large pool, heated, not too deep with gradual steps. Plentiful and comfortable sun loungers surround the pool so we found a spot to relax and read whilst relishing in the tranquil surroundings. The beauty of an early flight is having half a day left to start your holiday, particularly on a short trip. We enjoyed dinner in the hotel restaurant that evening. The menu is simple but excellent and very well presented. Main courses include a delicious Moroccan salad, aubergine stuffed with seasonal vegetables and a selection of tagines. A glass of Morroccan red was a great accompaniment! We ate inside as it was a little too windy to eat out however the tables on the terrace provide a lovely aperitif/dinner/digestif spot by the peaceful pool. Breakfast is typically Moroccan: delivered to your table and eggs made to order. Traditional crêpes and pancakes, home made khobz (traditional Moroccan bread) with cheeses and ham, jams and honey are served with fresh fruit and a choice of teas and coffees as well as freshly squeezed orange juice and the most delicious home made yoghurt. The restaurant staff are lovely, so professional and friendly – they gave us 2 servings of yoghurt on the last morning as they realised that we loved it so much. Agafay Desert We had arranged a desert experience on our first full day in Marrakech. Our driver picked us up for a 60 minute drive to the Moroccan desert. Agafay Desert is a rocky landscape just 19 miles south of Marrakech. Agafay is a stone desert with rolling hills, dry riverbeds and rocky plateaus rather than the sand dunes of the Sahara. The views however are still stunning with the Atlas Mountains in the distance. We arrived at one of the ‘camps’, an area set up for large groups which we were lucky to have to ourselves. We arrived to a warm welcome and were dressed in traditional attire including a Berber head scarf ready for our camel ride. A camel getting onto its feet is an interesting manoeuvre – it’s always best to hold on tight. Once up we were off to enjoy a leisurely and peaceful perambulation through the desert landscape, led by our friendly guide, Hassan, before returning to the camp. Two large Berber tents are set up for lunch and dinner gatherings at the camp. We enjoyed a really delicious lunch of Moroccan vegetables and salads followed by a chicken tagine and fresh oranges, just by ourselves, overlooking the desert. It was beautifully served by a lovely waiter, Ahmad, who we invited to have mint tea with us once we had finished eating and chatted to him about his life at university and at work in Marrakech. Whilst it was hot – 42 degrees – the heat in Morrocco is dry so more bearable than oppressive, humid heat. We were relieved however to go back to the hotel and enjoy a much needed dip in the pool before getting ready to go into the city for dinner. Dinner in Marrakech We had been recommended Kabana , just a stone’s throw from the Jemaa El Fnaa. Kabana is a rooftop restaurant and bar, a great place with a fun vibe and good music which turns into a party setting as the sun sets. The atmospheric Koutoubia Mosque is just across the road. The food is very good and the cocktails and wine too. A great recommendation for a fun night in Marrakech. We couldn’t resist a walk through the Jemaa El Fnaa, which comes to life at sunset. Orange sellers, food stalls and water sellers all vying for business amongst the throng of locals and tourists is the main draw of the city at this time of night and makes Marrakech the heady and exotic destination we love. It’s always fun to enjoy a sunset cocktail at one of the (quite touristy) bars overlooking the square and watching it come to life. Having the number of our New Directions driver (bookable through the hotel via Greenstar Travel) made getting in and out of the city so easy and trouble free. The local yellow taxis can be quite tricky to negotiate with, plus, they are not air conditioned. Something we weren’t really keen to forego in the heat! Musée Yves Saint Laurent and Jardin Majorelle After another good breakfast the next morning we headed back to the city and the cool and stylish Musée Yves Saint Laurent and Jardin Majorelle . The Jardin Majorelle extends over 9,000 m² and is one of the most enchanting gardens in Morocco. The French painter Jacques Majorelle originally created the garden in 1922 as a sanctuary and botanical ‘laboratory’ and began planting exotic specimens from all over the world. Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé (long term business partner, fashion label co-founder and one time significant other of Yves Saint Laurent) moved to Marrakech in 1966. In 1980 they purchased the Jardin Majorelle to save it from destruction at the hands of hotel developers. The gardens are truly stunning, shaded in iconic Moroccan blue and offering a tranquil escape from the bustle of Marrakech. The Musée Yves Saint Laurent is an architectural masterpiece in itself and houses temporary and permanent collections of Yves Saint Laurent’s designs, demonstrating the history and evolvement of one of the most iconic fashion houses in the world. A real must for any budding fashion student, as are the souks which were our next stop. Moroccan Souks We decided to walk to the square and the labyrinth of souks, despite the heat, but it wasn’t far. We approached the souks from the north west and slowly wandered past shoes, bags, textiles, pottery, ornate lamps, jewellery, herbs, spices.… the list goes on. The souks were a much more pleasant experience than we remembered. The shaded roofs have been repaired and the cobbled streets are kept swept and clean. The sellers were friendly, obviously looking for business but respectful of the fact that we didn’t always want to buy. Many were keen to show us their father’s/brother’s/uncle’s business with no obligation, an invitation to take photographs and a genuine pride in what they were selling. We met a textile dyer who showed us the raw cactus silk and how it was died and hung up to dry before being woven into a Moroccan silk scarf. Following a few hours (which went by in a flash) and a few successfully bartered purchases we headed to a restaurant recommended by the owner of Fellah Hotel, who has rheumatoid arthritis best taste! L’Mida is a chic yet relaxed rooftop restaurant in the heart of the medina serving the most delicious Moroccan food such as octopus ceviche, burrata & taktouka mechouia, pastilla and tagines. It was a welcome respite from the heat of the souks and incredibly well priced. We spent our last few hours of the day enjoying the hotel, the spa, and the pool. Had we had longer we would have enjoyed a cookery, yoga or gym class and a few more excellent cocktails mixed by the lovely bar staff. We ate dinner at the hotel again that evening, watching the gardener replace the flowers in the vases on each table, freshly cut from the hotel gardens as an extremely dramatic thunderstorm passed over and cleared the air. Time to go We were sad to leave the next morning but felt utterly happy and rejuvenated even though we had only stayed for three nights. Fellah Hotel is such a relaxing, and at the same time vibrant, spot to enjoy a few days of Moroccan hospitality and culture. It is the perfect retreat from the bustle of Marrakech and perfectly located to explore the city, the Atlas Mountains and the Agafay Desert. Essaouira is only 2 hours away by car so a great addition to any longer Morocco itinerary. Get in touch with us here at Greenstar Travel to find out more. Blog originally posted on https://www.workham.com/explore-more-in-marrakech/ .